the culinary exploits of sariann lehrer

Iceland Excursion

Recently I spent a few days in the incredible country of Iceland. I explored Reykjavik for a day- what a beautiful city! Intense wind and cold notwithstanding, my day in the city was wonderful. I tasted the local cuisine, which is obviously heavily fish based. As an island, Iceland relies upon their fishing industry in large part. With the relatively recent trade and commerce available to the country, its cuisine still reflects a dependence upon preserved foods. Arnfríður, who lives in Reykjavik but grew up on a farm to the north, was lovely enough to take me to Cafe Loki, a cafe that specializes in traditional Icelandic cuisine. I had a baked gratinated fish dish, which was creamy and delicious, paired with Icelandic rye bread – traditionally baked in empty milk cartons at a low temperature for many hours, and is often buried in the ground near hot springs and left to cook. 

Cafe Loki Hakarl

Yes, I did try the national dish, hákarl, fermented shark. It was very sharp, with a dense but fatty texture. Arnfríður told me that the hákarl I tried wasn’t as pungent as it usually is- apparently when a proper batch is served, everyone in the room can smell it. 

Dinner

I also had the exceptional opportunity to spend the weekend with a group of locals. Despite having to remind them that I can’t understand Icelandic a few times, they were all incredibly hospitable and welcoming. We shared a meal together, and the cook used  a few recipes from my cookbook, A Feast of Ice and Fire. I’m always happy to see that the recipes can be followed successfully. He even had a set of US measuring cups and spoons!

The weekend was spent in an Icelandic summer house about 90 minutes outside of Reykjavik, so I was able to take in a bit of countryside. I was accosted by a couple mannerless Icelandic ponies, battered about by intense winds, ate harðfiskur (fish jerky) made by a fisherman at sea, and drank many a beer in the hot tub with good conversation and even better new friends.

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Bread and Butter Pickles

B&B Pickels

I grew up on a small horse farm in Connecticut, in an agricultural town. I loved it. The smells of small town New England – leather, silage, and manure – make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. We were lucky enough to live just a ten minute drive from my maternal grandmother, Mémère, and her husband Steve. I spent many a day exploring the woods with Steve, “hunting for snipe” with their massive German Shepherd, Sheba.  My dad has been in a tennis league on Tuesday nights for as long as I can remember, so Tuesday’s were the nights we visited Mémère and Steve’s for dinner. One of my fondest memories of these dinners is never leaving her kitchen without a paper cup filled with bread and butter pickles, Cracker Barrel cheddar cheese, and Wheat Thins.

Paper Cup

There were times, in my broke, post-university years, that I lived off of essentially the same things. But is wasn’t till last summer that I tried my hand at making pickles of my own. After a half batch as a test run, my first full jar went straight to my Mémère for taste testing. I was tickled to hear that not only were they edible, but they taste exactly like her mother, my Grand-Mémère used to make. I was born on my Grand-Mémère’s birthday, and am named after her, so already feel a great affinity toward her. Knowing that my own culinary skills are even remotely in the same league as hers makes me incredibly proud.

Pickles

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Helen Browning Organics

For those unaware, I’ve traveled across land and sea to spend a month with the lovely folks here at Helen Browning Organics, at her pub, The Royal Oak, and her organic farm, Eastbrook. Most of my time has been spent in the kitchen, where head chef Rikki McCowen has graciously put up with my ineptitudes and lack of commercial kitchen experience. After one week, I’ve already learned loads and hopefully the kitchen staff find me a bit more useful than when I started.

  

Tim Finney, pub proprietor, and the lovely man that made this adventure possible, allowed me the pleasure of visiting the farm’s butcher in Laverstoke yesterday. Two pig carcasses from the farm awaited us, and the butcher assisted us in cutting it up to saleable parts, which we weighed and recorded.  It’s bloody cold in a butcher’s, but it’s made up for by the wonderful blue coat, booties, and cap I got to wear.

Eastbrook farm is an incredible organic operation on gorgeous premises. The Royal Oak serves pork and beef reared on the farm, as well as locally grown seasonal produce. Come visit the farm and pub while I’m here in Wiltshire, it’s a lovely location, great real ales, and wonderful food. Bring a copy of A Feast of Ice and Fire, and I’ll sign it for you! More updates on my explorations and misadventures in Bishopstone to come…